Pretty cool, especially for android based handhelds.
Another similar project is Gamenative, which I’ve been using some. It’s worked well in my testing.
Yeah, when I upgraded my Deck’s m.2 drive to 1tb I used cloning as well, but it was mainly just because I didn’t want to reinstall all my games/emulators/plugins/etc. Definitely worked smoothly to do it that way.
Fantastic, I’m happy that worked for you.
I do wonder how many good controllers get thrown away over drift from stuff like this.
Thanks for sharing, hopefully it will help someone.
From reading on the issue, it may be a timeout during a large TRIM operation. With larger drives, you can have large scale TRIM operations fail for a couple reasons, but it mostly comes down to the volume of the requested consecutive operations being more than the NVME drive’s controller can handle in one go, or more than it can handle within the typical 30 second timeout window for these commands.
If it was this, you could either temporarily disable trim for the drive before running the install, or possibly tweak the mkfs commands in the install script to include the nodiscard option.
There’s different thumbstick parts for LCD and OLED, the switch you’re talking about is only on the LCD thumbsticks, and it’s for switching between type A and type B sticks (the LCD originally had 2 different thumbstick parts that aren’t interchangeable). When replacing sticks for the LCD deck, you used to have to check if you had A or B sticks and order different models depending on that, but the added A/B switch means there’s now only one LCD stick model to buy.
The OLED sticks have some completely different design parts, for example the LB/RB buttons are actually part of the OLED stick, which is nice since those can be permanently ruined by dropping the deck. Repairing broken LB/RB on the LCD deck is much harder, but changes like this means you can’t have interchangeable sticks between LCD and OLED.
Monopolies can benefit the consumer, at least in the short term. When Netflix was the streaming monopoly, it had more popular content at a much lower price. Competition between streaming platforms has resulted in better deals for studios selling streaming rights to their content, but a much worse deal for the end consumers.
Similar deal with Audible, their monopoly on audiobook sales leads to really good deals for their users, at the cost of terrible payouts and cut percentages for authors and publishers.
To be clear I’m not saying that monopolies are good, but saying they never benefit consumers isn’t quite accurate either. As a storefront you can use high user counts to force better deals, which helps retain users and block out competition.
A lot of stick drift is actually caused by debris or sticky residue in the thumbstick housing, I’ve fixed stick drift on a lot my personal controllers just by spraying some plastic-safe electric cleaner spray in around the drifting stick.
That said, I did replace the sticks on my OLED deck because the capacitive pad came off. I used a set of Gulikit Hall Effect sticks, and they’ve worked pretty well.
I have heard that some of their older stick designs had issues like square dead zones, not sure if that’s still an issue. I know they improved their LCD stick designs so that you no longer have to solder anything or buy different products depending on if you have type A or type B sticks.
Plugin is in development, not fully ready yet.
There’s also the plugin “pause games” that can suspend a game, stopping it from having any CPU/GPU load while you play something else. However it doesn’t free up used memory, and sometimes controls don’t work when multiple games are open, with one game intercepting inputs meant for the other games. So this would be pretty cool if it works out.
Yeah different chargers/battery packs will have different supported voltage/amp outputs. These are required to be listed on the charger/battery, usually in fine print. Also, 15v/3A is a standard combination though, and is required to be present in any official USB-C device that covers 45w or more.
So if your 100w brick can’t do 15v, it either means that it’s not an official USB-C certified charger (lots of cheap online chargers aren’t official and break USB-C spec), or that the power negotiation is failing (due to damaged cord/dirty connector/etc) and it’s falling back on 5v as a minimum output to be safe.
I think gamenative may hit your expectations, it’s surprisingly smooth. Once you’re signed in, your library comes up, and it shows you what games should be compatible (which is most of them, but doesn’t factor in performance). There are community reported configs that work, so games will automatically default to proton versions/etc that are known to work.